Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Flamenco-the real stuff

The guide books tease and movies portray passionate groups of Spaniards singing and flamenco dancing at parties and neighborhood bars. It's true. It's awesome. It kicks karaoke's butt.
After the stage flamenco show, I discovered the intimate Mino Tauro down the street. Deciding that I needed more tapas, and perhaps a sangria or 3, I went in. Right at the front door there was a man playing a guitar, a woman singing and a couple of people dancing. Not realizing what I had discovered, I waited for them to finish and went in. What I thought was merely a musical hiccup was real flamenco right before me. The stuff with street cred. WOW!!! Passersby will hear a song and stop in the doorway to watch or join in the dancing that takes place in the middle of the aisle in front of the bar. People join in singing, old men lift their suit coats to be matadors for the song and stomp and clap along with the 30 somethings. Incredible! The woman next to me let me know I was seeing a very special musical guest. The guitarist/singer that had joined the original duo was a famous performer who had fallen into drugs and was working his way back after rehab. I stayed until around 1. It was a Thursday. I left WAY before anyone else.
Gimpy advice: sit in the back-ish so you don't have to worry about navigating the crowds to get to the aseo(toilet-not called bathroom in Spain). The lovely people of Sevilla are accommodating and friendly. Just DON'T interrupt the flamenco, and you'll be taken care of like family.

Monday, June 28, 2010

Ole' Sevilla!

El Patio Sevillano is the Flamenco establishment the Hotel recommended. I decided to go to the late show and, as I had over tapa-ed (again) I didn't opt for the dinner plan. No steps to get in, wide aisles and not too crowded.
Now THIS was the side of Spain I had been anxious to see. Live music and singing combined with 8 or 9 dance vignettes. There is foot stomping that reminds me of Irish dancing combined with beautiful hand and arm movements similar to Hawaiian dancing. Also, the dancers contribute to the rhythm not only with their feet but by clicking their castinettes in a similar fashion to the finger cymbals Greek belly dancers use.
There were several traditional dances and Carmen. With my limited Spanish, I couldn't make out all the words. I do know that I heard "corazon", "mi amore", and "consuelo" quite often. Heart, my love, and inconsolable were common themes. Was I in Spain or back home watching a country music video?? Spain. These women had no cleavage or booty showing.

Seville, Sevilla

The Yankees call it Seville. However, it is spelled Sevilla in Spain and pronounced "say-vee-ya". Here I stayed at the Hotel Abril. 2 large steps getting in. However, help is always available here. I stayed in a first floor room right by the cafe.
I must let you know that Spain has the best coffee!! It doesn't matter if you're at the train station or a 5 star hotel in Madrid. If you have ever watched someone make your espresso then you know the machine. A different blend and grind of coffee is used and not tamped down like espresso but, each cup is made just for you when you order it. Yummmmm!! Good thing I loved the coffee so much because Sevilla is the party with passion place to be!!

Saturday, June 26, 2010

High Speed Train

With a mix of excitement and fear, I boarded the high speed train to Seville. "Mind the gap", is an understatement when boarding. The step that folds out from the train at the platform falls about 10 inches short of reaching out to the platform and is a large step up. Have someone take your luggage in and then see if they will stand at the top and help you navigate the large up and forward entry. That way, worse case scenario, you fall into the train.
Once you're on the way, sit in the wide and comfy seats with tons of leg room, large-ish bathroom and a cafeteria car to walk to if cramping or numbness necessitate a short jaunt. I took a little nap but, there was a movie playing in English with Spanish subtitles. At 300 plus KPH, reaching Seville only took about 2 1/2 hours. There were no random beasts on the tracks, no derailments at high speed and the ride was super smooth. Put this on your to do list!!

Friday, June 25, 2010

Bravo for the Prado

(Yea, I know I'm mixing Italian in with the Spanish. I just liked the sound of it.)
The Prado Museum of Art has wheelchairs they let you use for free!!!!
Lots of security, can't take a backpack or anything large and everything goes through an airport like screening process. Small price to pay for being able to whiz through the rooms looking at art and not getting tired.
However, the food court and restrooms are difficult to manage. The handicapped restroom is up a steep ramp behind a door that opens toward you. Ask for help. There are enough tourists here that someone will help if asked nicely (Ayudame por favor). The food court is a little cramped to wheel yourself through and not risk loosing a knuckle. I found it helpful to lift the leg support on the "good leg side" and pull myself through. Slowly. Too hard and it's like a row boat going in circles.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Royal Pain

Went on the double-decker bus to the Palacio Real de Madrid today. Horrible!! The palace is not friendly to gimpy folks. Paid 20 euros to go on a guided tour. We were told to go to the wrong area. After 5 minutes or so, I went to one of the security people to ask where the English tour started from. Across the cobble stone courtyard and had already left. Upon arriving at the designated spot, we were informed that, indeed, the group had already left. The tour was only of the second floor. While there was an elevator up to that level, it was to a restricted area that was WAY far away from the tour area. The handrails do NOT extend the whole way up the stairs. Through another combination of prayer, crawling and hoisting myself up on the shoulders of others, I made it. After rushing to meet the group, I inadvertently joined an even more special private tour group and was promptly asked to leave. Since I was left to my own devices, I switched into full blown mosey mode to see the remaining rooms. I went back down the palace stairs with the combo of fear, anger and humiliation. AMAZINGLY, I found another elevator that would take me to the cafe and gift shop (the almighty dollar speaks again). Met another American with an artificial leg that was gimping his way through the palace as well. His experience was no better than mine. However, he has learned from experience. He chose to only pay the 3.50 admittance fee and go it on his own. Groups leave you behind in some countries and your money is wasted. Lesson learned. I had read bad reviews on Spain and now, I am beginning to understand why. Haven't even begun to talk about attitude problems here. More on that with the Prado art museum post.

Monday, June 7, 2010

tapas, tapas everywhere!!

La Carbonaria (close to the Plaza De Sol just off Calle Mayor) is fabulous!! Manchego and Jamon and olives- oh my! Little tiny tables and chairs outside. They will move anything to make room for a wheelchair or someone on crutches or walker. The character who talked us into tapas did so with a smile and gestures. WARNING: I saw steps going inside. Perhaps not the best place to use the restroom but, a great place to have fun.

Hola from Madrid!!

Wow!! Madrid airport is NOT for disabled folks. I was able to get up and down all the steps by having someone else carry everything and muttering prayers under my breath. (I heard a rumor there are elevators but only found 1 in working order for the last set of stairs.) I am staying in the Melia here. Doormen (people?) were on top of everything. Elevators are a bit small but, close and run smoothly. The rooms are for the smarty pants set. The side tables are up-lit, the toilet is a square that is cantilevered from the beautiful tiled walls. If you are on crutches, this hotel is no problem. A wheelchair is a big no. A walker may be able to squeeze through. I think I can, I think I can..... Adios!

Saturday, June 5, 2010

too much

You can't bank exercise. I worked extra hard at PT yesterday in preparation for the trip to Spain. Today I can hardly move and was up all night with leg spasms. Why oh why do I do this to myself? Is it optimism or stupidity? Hmmm, perhaps a blend of both. I hope my legs will stay still on the plane tomorrow. Spasms in tight quarters are horrible.

Friday, June 4, 2010

web development

Sit through web development classes....check. Become confused and want to put < or { marks around everything.....check. Ponder that I should have hired someone to create the site instead of doing it myself.....ongoing.

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Let the adventures begin!!

Begin the countdown....4 days until the departure to Europe. Blog.......check. Passport.......check. Thing that goes around your neck to hold your passport and money (I am a bit worried about pic-pockets in Barcelona).....get tomorrow.